Commodore Plus/4

Received this Plus/4 today from eBay. Sold as untested with no PSU and fully expected this to be broken.

The power supply connector is a 4 pin affair that looks similar to the C128 and Amiga but it is not. All is not lost however as if you remove the original connector it can be directly replaced with one from a C64, and thats just what I did.


The swap was a very quick operation and to my surprise the system fired up with no issues other than some keys on the keyboard need a little more force than others.

I think the SD2IEC is also compatible but I will need an external power supply for it as mine normally plugs into the cassette port of a C64/128 for its power needs.

Virtual Boy repair log

Got a Virtual Boy the other day with the Flash Boy Plus cartridge.
The unit worked fine with the Red Alarm game that was already on the cart but when I changed the game to Bound High I was greeted with a solid red screen. The music played and I could run the game blind but that was no use.

I reflashed with Red Alarm and after a couple of screen artifacts in the left screen the game played fine.
After a quick Google around it turns out that this can and will happen to every Virtual Boy made and occurs when the glue holding the FCC ribbon deteriorates so that connections become unreliable.
There are a couple of different fixes for this. One is to strip the plastic back and solder the very fine connections directly onto the board which is a permanent fix, the other is to but the little module into the oven at about 80 degrees C for a couple of minutes then apply pressure to the cable afterwards in the hope that the glue will reset making a nicer connection. This is not a permanent fix but will get you away. The later method is what i opted to do as I’m pretty lazy and dont have the chemicals needed to dissolve the plastic.

The first hurdle is actually getting into the unit as Nintendo kept with the same gamebit screws they used for other devices but they also stuck them down a deep hole so standard gamebit drivers cannot normally reach as they are too fat.
The solution is to make your own from a flat blade driver. I used my milling machine to cut it down and cut a groove in the end. Its certainly not pretty but worked perfectly.

On opening the ribbon cables are on either side of the unit and is held in at the board by 2 little crosshead screws. DO NOT try removing the 2 bigger screws near by, they control alignment.


The top of the cable just pulls out (carefully!).

Get a bit of tin foil, sit the offending article onto said foil, preheat the oven to around 80 degrees C and bake for around 1.5 – 2 minutes.
After its done remove it (its not hot) and rub or apply pressure onto the connection side until its sufficiently cooled and the glue will have reset.
After this, take some sticky tape and apply it to the area wrapping it round so that it applies a little pressure onto the connection.
Refit and test.
This worked perfect for me and many other people have said the same thing.

Time to waste my weekend playing some headache inducing goodness

Homemade Micro SwinSID

Today I decided to make my own SwinSID as I had the schematics and also had the parts laying about.
After a short time checking everything was going to the right places I fitted it into my C64 and fired it up.
As expected it works just fine.
The board still needs cut down to size. I didnt add the ground planes on this one due to some through hole issues.

Thanks to Swinkels for making the SwinSID software

Pooyan bootleg Konami 501 replacement board

Zabanitu has sent me his schematic that has been reverse engineered from the (Konami) 501 replacement board on his bootleg Pooyan.
At this point it is untested and maybe there is even a possibility this will work on a genuine board too?

Here is the Eagle CAD schematic anyway should anyone want to try this out
If you do, please let me know what the outcome was.
Thanks

VIC20 repair log

Got Stiggys other VIC20 the other day, it wont load anything via the serial port and just reports back “DEVICE NOT PRESENT”.
According to Ray Carlsen this can be caused by a dodgy 7406 IC and he wasn’t wrong.

I checked all the states of this chip with a logic probe and all seemed to be as it should be so I went through each gate with a logic pulser and checked for its output. The outputs on pins 4 and 6 were stuck.

Removed the chip and eventually found one on a C64c motherboard that was scrap.
Replaced and tested with a demo and a couple of games.

I also took this opportunity to try out the VIC20 JiffyDOS (PAL).
My original test with JiffyDOS on this failed, nothing would load up. Turns out there is an NTSC and a PAL version, the later being significantly harder to find but we got there in the end.

Jumping repair log

Got this Rainbow Islands bootleg yesterday.
The game worked when I tested but was told about a dodgy ribbon connector before buying it so decided to take a look. Not sure what happened after that but the board refused to boot.
After finding a few stuck address lines I decided to check the program ROMs. Found 3 that would not read properly so I replaced them.
In MAME it lists 2 of the program ROMs as being from the genuine Rainbow Islands set but these are double the size so needed to be split into 2 files and burned to 27512 EPROMs.

Probably worth mentioning that if you use the older 2005 ROMIdent program then the dumps from Jumping actually show up as 2 seperate ROMs. Must have been like this at one time.
Booting up now gives me a screen of garbage

Every now and then I could make out a “SCREEN RAM ERROR” message. The screen RAM is located on the second board and suspected this is what happens when the ribbon connector got a bit wrong but couldnt get the game to boot again no matter what I did so I decided to socket the 68000 cpu and see what was going on, kinda wish I hadnt now as I got this

Accepting the error just kept flagging more “tied bits” errors. Turns out this was a red herring as these lines are controlled by a PAL20L8 chip and everything passes if this is removed. Wasted a little bit of time on this.

After taking a careful look at the connector it turns out the plastic housing that holds the ribbon cable in place was damaged and this allowed the ribbon cable to come away from the pins. I properly reseated the cable and tested, the board now fires up in all its crazy bootleg glory

The game plays pretty much like Rainbow Islands does but some of the sprites and names are different and I think the secret rooms dont work too well.

This game has 3 PAL chips on it, unfortunately all are security locked and I am only able to read 1 of them (might be able to read the one on the video board but never tried).

MK-III C64 adapter

After a few different designs and trials I think Ive finally settled on something I like.
Ive pretty much got double sided boards sorted but making vias are a pain but it works and looks ok.
As you can see this is destined to be fitted in Stiggy’s machine. It still needs cut down to size but im happy with that.

Sorry, I wont be making these for other people so please don’t ask.

C64 – Trilogic 64 Doctor cartridge

This fancy litle thing arrived today.

It was still sealed so was a little bit of a shame to open it but whats the point in that really?
The box included a cartridge, a user port device and a serial port device

Since I love hardware I couldnt resist opening up the cartridge for a peek. Not sure what I expected to find, maybe something fancy and cool? Not likely.

I tried to open the user port device up but the screws have been deliberately sheared but there is a hole at the top where you can see in and it just looks like a load of the lower contacts are soldered together, terminals B – M according to the allpinouts.org.
One strange quirk about this adapter is it doesnt fully fit into the user port due to the size of the case the edge connector is housed in, you have to kind of mash it in and hope for the best.

The serial port device is also the same but am unable to make out whats connected yet but its very easy to make your own up.
Running the cartridge brings up a nice keyboard test screen where you can press each key on the keyboard and it lights up the relevant key pressed

Pressing the RESTORE key moves on to the Joystick test

And finally onto the computer checks

I didnt have any of the adapter devices plugged in here but they do work, whether they prove anything or not in the event of a real failure remains to be seen.

The manual is pretty informative containing possible problems for each error very similar to the superb info Ray Carlsen has on his site.
There is also a load of order forms for different “Doctor” products for the C64

After a few seconds of google searching I found a ROM dump for this cartridge so it is entirely possible to make up a set of your own should you feel the need to.

Mortal Kombat PAL dumps

Today I found a PLS153 and a couple of PAL16L8 IC’s on my old Mortal Kombat board.
I have added the original PLS153 dump and also reworked it to work with my GAL adapter, both are in the Downloads section.

The 2 PALs were protected so these were dumped with the Boardmaster.

If any of these IC’s are missing from the board, it will not boot at all.

The manual for MK states the following for the chips:
5346-40025-2 => PLD Address Decode
5346-40025-3 => PLD Video RAM Control
5346-40025-4 => PLD Local Control

These have all been tested

PLS153 to GAL22V10 adapter

A little while back I made up an adapter for the PLS153 so I could use a GAL22V10 in its place providing the JED file was reworked.
I made the adapter on veroboard but now I can do basic prototyping using copper clad boards I thought id make a proper one up.

The design only took 5 or so minutes in Eagle CAD and after a quick sanity check I printed and transferred it to a board.

And a little while later it was etched and time to drill this thing out.

I fitted sockets where needed and took a few comparison photos with the old proto one.

(or is it GAL2PLS?)


Time to run the game, works perfect. Im happy with this, I can now replace these parts reliably should I need to.